MAGPIE STYLE

January 19, 2016 fake black 0

MAGPIE STYLE Style-cult clash and curation It has been called magpie style, for its readiness to borrow and radically combine looks from a host of twentieth- and twenty- first-century style tribes and trends. It has also been called ‘pick and mix’, while in 2010 the style anthropologist Ted Polhemus dubbed […]

CYCLING

January 19, 2016 fake black 0

CYCLING Two wheels good When cycling became a popular pastime in the late nineteenth century it defined its own style: plus-fours prevented trousers getting caught up in gearing, while bloomers for women saved any possibility of immodesty (despite ankle-length skirts). Indeed, the uptake of cycling encouraged the support of a […]

STREET PHOTOGRAPHY

January 19, 2016 fake black 0

STREET PHOTOGRAPHY Capturing the way real people dress It was not until the post-World War II decades that photographers – aided by new fast, affordable and lightweight point-and-shoot cameras – began documenting fashion as it was found on the street, away from catwalk presentations and designers’ studios. What made this […]

REPRODUCTION

January 19, 2016 fake black 0

REPRODUCTION Reinventing the 1950s The reproduction of vintage clothing was, until the 1980s, largely the preserve of the cinema and theatre industries, which required it for costume dramas and other productions. Extensive research would lead to the creation of historically accurate clothing, with creative alterations to express character or reflect […]

GANGURO

January 18, 2016 fake black 0

GANGURO Make-up into rebellion The name ganguro translates literally as ‘black face’. And it was no coincidence that the Japanese subculture’s most famed exponent, Buriteri, nicknamed after a particularly dark soy sauce, was also a model for a Tokyo tanning salon called Blacky. Ganguro, which broke in the mid-1990s and […]

DECORA

January 18, 2016 fake black 0

DECORA Kiddy cute for grown-ups If cuteness is a quality many children actively seek to be free of as they aspire to being an adult, then the Japanese subculture of decora (from ‘decoration’) turned the tables. Originating in Tokyo’s Harajuko and Shibuya fashion districts in the late 1990s and peaking […]

STEAMPUNK

January 18, 2016 fake black 0

STEAMPUNK Yesterday meets tomorrow If fashion often looks to the past for inspiration or imagines what it might look like in the future, steampunlc envisages a melding of the two, taking the aesthetic of the Victorian and Edwardian periods and crossing it with both the science of today and ideas […]

VINTAGE

January 18, 2016 fake black 0

VINTAGE The search for the one-off The appeal of old clothing during the early 1990s was more than a newfound appeal for the second-hand. Indeed, while charity and thrift shops may have been the hunting grounds of those into vintage style, the clothes they sought were ranked with a level […]

BURLESQUE

January 18, 2016 fake black 0

BURLESQUE Underwear as outerwear When, as a joke, French designer Jean Paul Gaultier devised a conical bra bustier for Nana, his teddy bear, he did not expect a version to be worn as stagewear by Madonna for her ‘Blond Ambition’ tour of 1990. But with her doing so, the idea […]

SOCIAL MEDIA

January 18, 2016 fake black 0

SOCIAL MEDIA Power to the people It is perhaps no surprise that the generation born in the 1990s, raised on reality TV, performance and the idea of fame as the new global currency, would be at the forefront of exploring the potential of the new social media – virtual communities […]