January 19, 2016 fake black 0

MAGPIE STYLE Style-cult clash and curation It has been called magpie style, for its readiness to borrow and radically combine looks from a host of twentieth- and twenty- first-century style tribes and trends. It has also been called ‘pick and mix’, while in 2010 the style anthropologist Ted Polhemus dubbed […]


January 19, 2016 fake black 0

CYCLING Two wheels good When cycling became a popular pastime in the late nineteenth century it defined its own style: plus-fours prevented trousers getting caught up in gearing, while bloomers for women saved any possibility of immodesty (despite ankle-length skirts). Indeed, the uptake of cycling encouraged the support of a […]


January 19, 2016 fake black 0

STREET PHOTOGRAPHY Capturing the way real people dress It was not until the post-World War II decades that photographers – aided by new fast, affordable and lightweight point-and-shoot cameras – began documenting fashion as it was found on the street, away from catwalk presentations and designers’ studios. What made this […]


January 19, 2016 fake black 0

REPRODUCTION Reinventing the 1950s The reproduction of vintage clothing was, until the 1980s, largely the preserve of the cinema and theatre industries, which required it for costume dramas and other productions. Extensive research would lead to the creation of historically accurate clothing, with creative alterations to express character or reflect […]


January 18, 2016 fake black 0

LOLITA Pure escapism To Western minds at least, a street style called Lolita and involving dressing like a hyperreal version of a small girl inevitably gives rise to connotations of inappropriate child- adult relationships. Yet the Japanese Lolita style is more about covering up than exposing flesh, more about escapism […]